In a world where sustainability is no longer a trend but a necessity, Keel Labs is pushing the boundaries of material innovation with Kelsun™, a seaweed-based fibre that could transform the fashion industry. Led by co-founders Aleksandra Gosiewski and Tessa Callaghan, the North Carolina-based company is rethinking the future of textiles by harnessing the regenerative power of marine ecosystems.
"For me, it was clear early on that the fashion industry needed more sustainable solutions," says Gosiewski, Co-Founder and COO of Keel Labs. "With a background in fashion design and economics, I had the opportunity to see the critical problems in the industry up close, which made it easier to identify where we could innovate."
Drawing on their design experience, the founders decided to tackle the root cause of fashion's environmental impact: the materials. Instead of looking to land, they turned to the ocean, where they found an abundant, renewable resource that could have a positive environmental impact—seaweed.
Left to right: Aleksandra Gosiewski - Co-Founder and COO, Tessa Callaghan -Co-Founder and CEO.
Kelsun™ is the result of this groundbreaking approach. Made from alginate, a biopolymer found in seaweed, Kelsun™ offers the fashion industry a sustainable alternative to conventional fibres like cotton and polyester. Unlike traditional fibres that require vast amounts of land and chemicals to produce, Kelsun™ starts in the ocean, bypassing the harmful environmental practices that dominate land-based agriculture. “Kelsun is made from 100% USDA biobased content and is easily biodegradable at the end of its life," says Gosiewski. "It’s a powerful alternative to the resource-intensive materials currently on the market."
But it wasn’t an easy journey to commercialisation. The Keel Labs team had to refine the seaweed extraction process, ensuring it could be scaled while maintaining the sustainability ethos at the core of their mission. Fortunately, alginate extraction is not new, having been used in the food and medical industries for years. “The process of extracting alginate from seaweed was developed long before we started using it,” Gosiewski explains. "Our challenge was less about the extraction and more about refining the process to create a viable textile material."
Kelsun™ is now ready for large-scale production, and its versatility has already caught the attention of major fashion designers. Stella McCartney, known for her commitment to sustainable luxury, incorporated Kelsun™ garments into her Summer 2024 runway show. The intricately crocheted garments, adorned with glinting platinum mirrors, demonstrated not only the beauty of the material but also its potential to lead the charge for the next generation of sustainable fashion.
"Stella McCartney is a perfect partner for us," Gosiewski says. "She’s always been a leader in sustainability, and for her to use Kelsun on such a global stage really validates the work we’re doing."
One of the key advantages of Kelsun™ is that it can be seamlessly integrated into existing textile production infrastructure, making it a realistic option for fashion brands looking to pivot to greener alternatives. "From the onset, we wanted to create something that could fit into the current systems," explains Gosiewski. "Early on, production volume was a challenge, but now that we’ve scaled, we’ve been able to test Kelsun on traditional textile production equipment."
This foresight is a testament to Gosiewski’s systems thinking, a skill she honed while navigating the logistical and supply chain challenges of growing Keel Labs. “When it comes to building a business, you have to think many years ahead," she says. "For Kelsun, that means carefully mapping out where our raw materials are sourced and how they’re distributed to minimise our footprint."
One of the most significant challenges Keel Labs faced was ensuring a stable and scalable supply chain for seaweed. “We had to change our seaweed source to guarantee scalability long-term,” Gosiewski notes. By visualising their supply chains and considering various options before making decisions, Keel Labs has maintained its commitment to environmental responsibility without sacrificing business growth.
Keel Labs’ mission is clear: to harness the power of the ocean to revolutionise the textile industry. But their impact goes beyond the product itself. "Keel Labs cannot operate in a bubble," Gosiewski says. "It’s important to stay connected to broader trends—not just in fashion but in areas like finance, policy, and global relations. These learnings influence how we approach our work."
Keel Labs remains a hub of innovation, driven by a dedication to R&D that permeates every level of the company. "R&D is at the heart of what we do," Gosiewski emphasises. "We prioritise innovation with sprints and blue-sky thought sessions to keep pushing forward with the future of the company in mind."
With growing pressure from consumers and governments alike, fashion brands are increasingly looking for ways to reduce their environmental impact. Kelsun™ is a compelling solution, offering not only an eco-friendly material but also one that performs like traditional fibres without the associated environmental harm. "We start with a renewable resource—seaweed," says Gosiewski. "That helps reduce reliance on arable land and harmful additives like pesticides and fertilisers."
The environmental benefits of seaweed are well documented. Just as trees absorb carbon dioxide on land, seaweed does the same in the ocean, making it one of the most regenerative organisms on the planet. "Kelsun is 100% biodegradable," Gosiewski highlights. "We’ve had third-party verification that Kelsun biodegrades in wastewater within a few days, compared to petroleum-based materials that can take centuries."
This commitment to sustainability is what earned Gosiewski a spot on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list, a recognition that has opened doors to new opportunities for Keel Labs. "Being named Forbes 30 Under 30 introduced me to a network of young entrepreneurs who share the same mission," she says. "It’s a reminder that progress is made when we come together to solve these global challenges."
And the fashion industry is taking notice. Keel Labs’ innovative approach has positioned them at the intersection of science and design, where creativity meets environmental responsibility. As more brands look to adopt sustainable materials, Keel Labs is poised to lead the charge with Kelsun™.
"At the end of the day, our goal is simple," says Gosiewski. "We want to create materials that allow fashion brands to meet their sustainability goals without compromising on quality or performance. Kelsun is our way of doing that—by harnessing the power of the ocean to transform the industry for the better."
As Keel Labs continues to grow, it’s clear that the ocean holds the key to a more sustainable future. And with Kelsun™, Gosiewski and her team are determined to unlock it.
