Steven Bethell has called on ministers to take decisive action as ultra-fast fashion increasingly enters the UK market without facing the taxes and standards required of domestic retailers. In an open letter addressed directly to the Government, Bethell writes of his “genuine concern about the deluge of ultra-fast fashion flooding the market and our fashion ecosystem as a result of the de minimis rule.”
He stresses that companies are exploiting the loophole by “shipping products into the country via post without paying import taxes, VAT, or business rates,” enabling them to sell ultra-cheap garments that he says are not being tested against recognised standards. Bethell argues that businesses paying full tax obligations are being placed at a clear disadvantage, noting that Bank & Vogue and others “are keen to compete, but believe it must be on a level playing field.”
Bethell also highlights the knock-on effect on the charitable sector. He warns that the influx of ultra-cheap, low-quality items is undermining the second-hand clothing market, which many UK charities rely on to raise essential funds. According to the letter, this trend is “negatively impacting these charities’ ability to remain profitable,” and in turn affecting the communities they serve.
The letter further claims that some ultra-fast fashion companies are “waging a misinformation campaign against the global used-clothing trade” and have “financed $50 million to ‘charities’ lobbying against the global second-hand sector.” Bethell frames this as a coordinated effort that risks damaging the reputation and viability of reuse markets worldwide.
Calling the situation a “growing scourge on our fashion landscape,” Bethell urges the Government to close the de minimis loophole as a matter of urgency. Signed in his capacity as founder of Beyond Retro, the appeal underscores the wider concerns of circular fashion advocates who argue that unchecked imports of ultra-fast fashion threaten sustainability efforts, economic fairness and community support structures alike.
The letter can be read below.
